Bayern’s first away game of the new Champions League campaign takes them to Birmingham to face Aston Villa. Ahead of the match, we spoke with Paul, the president of the ‘Bayern Munich UK’ fan club, to get some tips on the city, the stadium, sights and food. From Shakespeare to Middle Earth and pubs in between, there’s plenty to keep you busy on this European adventure.
We reach Paul while on holiday in Cornwall. You can hear the British coastal wind whistling in the background over the phone. But the gusts can’t drown out the excitement in this English Bayern fan’s voice. “It always feels special when Bayern come to the UK. We’ve been to every Bayern game here since 2016, except for the 0-0 draw at Liverpool in 2018. This time will be different again, as Bayern haven’t played Villa since the 1980s,” he explains. This will be the first time Bayern have played Aston Villa in Birmingham. The only time the two teams have met was in 1982 – 42 years ago – when the English side won 1-0 in the final of the European Cup in Rotterdam. Now a new history of this fixture is being written, and it should get off to a successful start with the support of the local Bayern fans.
How to reach Villa Park
Villa Park is not located in the Aston neighbourhood, but very close by in Witton. “The stadium has a great tradition,” says Paul, who highlights the Holte End in particular. “It’s the counterpart to our Südtribune in Munich.” Aston Villa have been playing their home games there since 1897 - that's 127 years. “I recommend that all Bayern fans come to the stadium by train rather than on foot or by taxi,” says Paul, as the walk from the city centre takes over an hour and the industrial area in between is not the safest.
“You can get off at two stations near the stadium - Aston and Witton. I would recommend Witton as it’s also closer to the away section.” Paul should know, as he works in local transport coordination. He advises using Birmingham New Street station in the city centre to get directly to Witton.
„For me, football is about identity. There was no other team in the UK that I could identify with more.”
Paul, president of the 'Bayern Munich UK' fan club
What you need to know about Birmingham
With a population of over 1.1 million people, Birmingham is the second largest city in the United Kingdom after London. Naturally, several football clubs are located in and around the Midlands city, including Villa, Birmingham City – in which football legend Tom Brady is involved – as well as West Bromwich Albion and Wolverhampton Wanderers. “Despite its size, Birmingham is somewhat overshadowed by Manchester because it has less glamour,” says Paul, who grew up near Manchester in Bolton. “But it has a cosmopolitan charm and is the most international city in England next to London.”
The often cold weather in the university city is actually due to its high altitude, Paul reveals. “It’s the highest city in the UK. When you go there, it’s like it’s up a mountain,” he jokes. However, the highest stadium in English football is not Villa Park but that of West Brom, which is only five miles from Birmingham city centre. “Nearby I can recommend The Vine pub - especially for local beer. Bayern fans will love it there because it’s a West Brom fan pub. So, we’ll be on the same side as them on Wednesday,” says Paul with a wink.
Tips for food and drink
When travelling to Birmingham, Bayern fans should be aware that many restaurants and pubs only accept reservations for groups of 10 or more. “Birmingham is known for Balti, which is a type of curry,” explains Paul, who recommends Manzil’s restaurant for those interested. There’s also good food at The Vine in West Bromwich (see above). If fans are looking for the best bar or pub in the city, Paul has these locations on his list: The Colmore, The Wellington, Pure Craft, Cherry Reds or Post Office Vaults.
What to do besides football
If you like ‘The Return of the King’ just as much as European football royalty, then Middle Earth – sorry, Birmingham – is the place for you. None other than J.R.R. Tolkien, the creator of the fantasy epic ‘The Lord of the Rings’, grew up in the city before writing the legendary book series during his time as a philology professor at Oxford. ‘Hobbit’ fans can visit several places in and around Birmingham that inspired the author’s works, such as the Sarehole Mill Museum. If you prefer Romeo and Juliet to Gandalf and Galadriel, you can also follow in the footsteps of Shakespeare. An hour’s bus journey from Birmingham is Stratford-upon-Avon, where the famous poet was born and is buried.
More about ‘Bayern Munich UK’
Paul (front l.) with the ‘Bayern Munich UK’ fan club.
Founded in 2009 by Nathan from Australia, who owned the Oktoberfest Pub in London at the time, Paul has been steadily developing the ‘Bayern Munich UK’ fan club together with his fellow administrative colleagues and members since 2016. Although the club’s pub had to close after the pandemic, and Paul & Co. do not currently have a shared ‘home’, more than 150 members are involved in total. “We have a great mix and an average age in the 30s. From an Englishman who was in the stadium in Munich back in the 70s to a doctor from Lebanon and my three-year-old son, we’ve got it all,” says a delighted Paul. At least 12 of them will be at Villa Park to support Bayern for the Champions League match in Birmingham. Paul and his fellow members will also be meeting up with fans from the ‘Red Dragons’, Bayern’s second fan club from London, in the city ahead of the match. FC Bayern is everywhere!
How Paul found Bayern
The story began on 26 May 1999, when Bayern lost the now infamous Champions League final in Barcelona against Manchester United in the final minutes. While Oliver Kahn, Stefan Effenberg and Lothar Matth äus were sitting dejected on the pitch at the Camp Nou, a 15-year-old English boy in the small town of Bolton discovered his passion for Bayern. “Élber and the rest went on to win the Champions League two years later. That team never gave up,” says Paul today.
“For me, football is about identity. There was no other team in the UK that I could identify with more.” Although his father was rooting for Bolton Wanderers, his mum for Newcastle United, and the Manchester clubs were not far away, Paul developed a love for Bayern: “I think my dislike of United made me even more interested in Bayern after 1999.”
Paul, who studied in Birmingham for four years and worked there for three, adds: “Football should bring people together.” That’s why it annoys him that his commitment to the German record champions has infuriated many of his fellow Englishmen. That being said, the loyalty of the British to their home clubs is also typical of the football culture in the UK.
Paul, we can at least say it’s great that you’ve become a Bayern fan, and thank you for all the insider tips. See you in Birmingham!
PS: If you want to meet Paul and the ‘Bayern Munich UK’ fan club in person, the plan is that you can meet members at the following places and times in Birmingham city centre on Wednesday: The Colmore (3pm to 4pm), Post Office Vaults (4pm to 5pm), Cherry Reds (5pm to 6.30pm).
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