When FC Bayern play in the Champions League, a normal Tuesday or Wednesday quickly turns into a holiday – and when the match takes place at the hallowed San Siro in Milan, it becomes a real football fairytale for many fans. This is exactly how the South Tyrolean Bayern fans feel who have made the journey in buses and cars to attend their team's quarter-final second leg against Inter Milan.
It’s more than an away game for them – it’s an emotional return close to home. “Our spiritual home is obviously the Allianz Arena in Fröttmaning,” says Manni Kuppelwieser, president of the umbrella organisation of FC Bayern fan clubs in South Tyrol. The umbrella organisation unites an impressive 40 fan club with over 7,000 registered members. Yet the geographical proximity to Milan lends this fixture a particular appeal.
Although South Tyrol is firmly in red and white hands, many other football teams enjoy support in the region – especially among the Italian-speaking population. Inter Milan, of course, are particularly popular here. Heated discussions among friends and colleagues are inevitable. “Of course, that gives the clash against Inter an added edge,” explains Kuppelwieser.
‘South Tyrol is red’ – and a bit Bavarian
Why Bayern specifically? For Kuppelwieser, the answer is obvious: “I always think of a quote by Goethe: ‘What you inherit from your fathers must first be earned before it's yours.’” For many South Tyroleans, the cultural proximity to Bavaria is simply palpable. They have similar mindsets, think similarly – and often cheer on with those to the north. “We’re just cut from the same cloth,” says Kuppelwieser.
So it's no wonder that numerous fan clubs have set off, many of them in convoy, organised and full of anticipation. The route: over the Brenner Pass, through northern Italy, with a culinary stopover at Lake Garda, where the supporters will refuel in fish restaurants or small trattorias. The destination: the San Siro, one of the most legendary football stages in Europe.
„I always think of a quote by Goethe: ‘What you inherit from your fathers must first be earned before it's yours.’ We’re just cut from the same cloth.”
Manni on the connection between Bavaria and South Tyrol
Milan calls – caution advised
Anyone arriving in Milan by car will quickly realise that parking spaces around the stadium are rare – and often expensive. Many fans have organised parking spaces in multi-storey car parks as a precaution, as it’s not advisable to hope for spontaneous street parking if you have a German number plate.
As well as that, keep your eyes open and watch out for valuables, says the umbrella organisation president. In recent years, there have been repeated thefts around major matches – most recently at the international match between Italy and Germany. Broken car windows and stolen purses were not uncommon. A little common sense and caution won’t go amiss here, says Kuppelwieser.
Favourite anecdote from 2001
A story that is told time and again among South Tyrolean fans dates back to 2001: at the Champions League final in Milan against Valencia, a Bayern fan had his wallet and ticket stolen right outside the stadium. The shock was huge – but an Italian steward at the entrance was merciful. With a lot of charm and a little persuasion, the fan was allowed into the stadium without a ticket. The game? One for the history books. And the fan? He was right in the middle of it. “Vai pure,” the steward had said. Go ahead.
Before the game: sightseeing and refreshment
Anyone arriving early in Milan is likely to head to the city centre. Fans from all across Europe, including many Bayern supporters, will converge around the imposing Piazza del Duomo, whiling away the time in the side streets, galleries and bistros – with an espresso, aperitivo or a panzerotti in their hand. There are plenty of food stalls around the stadium too, serving classics like salamella, pancetta or panini. Perfect for those who prefer it rustic to fancy before a match.
Kuppelwieser recommends the Ristorante & Pizzeria La Barchetta in Via Federico Tesio 15 Stadio to Bayern fans. Supporters can enjoy a tasty pizza right next to the stadium. The Tenconi Old Pub is also in Via Federico Tesio 15 and impresses with a nice ambience and good quality. In addition, the Baretto 1957 in Piazzale Angelo Moratti Snc is a bar full of character and a good meeting point before the game.
South Tyrol on the move – for red and white
Whether organised on the bus or independently in the car, the desire to travel among South Tyrolean Bayern fans shows once again what this club means to many. It's not just football. It is identity, home and a feeling that transcends borders. FC Bayern brings people together – from Munich to Milan, from Fröttmaning to South Tyrol.
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