Real calling: What you need to know about your trip to Madrid

It’s the calm before the storm on Tuesday. The day before, the sun is shining over Madrid, it’s 25 degrees with hardly a cloud in the sky. In the streets around Plaza Mayor, the doors of the bars are open, voices mix with music, waiters balance tapas through alleyways as well as, of course, one or two cervezas. 

In amongst it, bunches of Bayern fans can regularly be seen. Chants from the fans break out again and again, the tension and excitement are palpable ahead of the Champions League quarter-final first leg between Real Madrid and FC Bayern (Tuesday, 21:00 CEST).

There’s something in the air. The spark has been lit long before kick-off. Manuel Neuer once described the Bernabéu as a stadium with a special power, in which you immediately sense that great matches take place here. And he was speaking for many with that.

In the midst of this atmosphere is the “Bayern España” fan club. Around 80 members from the whole of Spain belong to it, organised across various cities, connected by their passion for FCB.

“We’re in daily contact in a WhatsApp group,” explains vice-president Pablo Pérez. “And at least once a year we try to get together for a big game.”

1. The city as the prelude: The day begins here

Those who want to truly experience the match should get to the city early. Around the Plaza Mayor and Puerta del Sol, fans from around the world begin gathering in the afternoon. These are places that demonstrate Madrid: loud and vibrant.

From here, many head towards La Latina or Malasaña, districts that are known for their bar and restaurant scenes. Particularly in La Latina, with its narrow alleyways and small pubs, you quickly get the feeling of being part of something bigger.

For members of Bayern España, this is part of the experience. “A lot of us live in different cities, so matches like this are special for us,” says Pérez. “Then we can arrange to meet and experience the match together.”

The fact that Bayern are coming to Spain has a special meaning for him: “The club is normally far away, but for matches like this it suddenly feels very close.”

2. The journey to the stadium: Part of the experience

The Santiago Bernabéu is situated in the north of the city and is easily reached by the Metro. People coming from the city centre usually hop straight on one of the lines heading toward the stadium and quickly realise they’re not the only ones.

The journey itself becomes part of the experience: full carriages, fans mixing, looks, brief chants. The atmosphere builds as you get closer to the stadium.

Bayern España will also be there, with some members even having tickets for the stadium. “A few of us will be at Bernabéu for this match, close to the away end,” says Pérez. “We’ll support throughout and play our part in the atmosphere.”

Outside the stadium, the atmosphere is spread across many little meeting points. Bars and cafés become sites of spontaneous gatherings, conversations quickly arise. If you listen closely, you also get a sense for the language of this club. “Hala Madrid y nada más” rings around the streets and later the stadium. The title of the club’s anthem symbolises utter dedication – Madrid and nothing else.

Real Madrid fans call themselves Madridistas, and sometimes Merengues (meringues) – a reference to their all-white jerseys. The mindset behind this is well known: at Real Madrid, it’s never about what’s been achieved, but always about the next step, the next goal, the next title. 

It is this ambition that shapes the atmosphere, and that Bayern fans from Spain experience first-hand. “We’re going into the game with great respect,” says Pérez. “But also with the feeling that we’re strong and can come away with something here.”

3. Food & nightlife: The game continues

The stadium might empty out after the final whistle, but the city remains alive. Madrid doesn’t have a fixed closing time. Instead, the game moves back into the streets.

Especially in districts like La Latina or along the Gran Via, the bars fill up again. Conversations become more intense, scenes are discussed, emotions relived. 

We spoke to Real fans in the current edition of FC Bayern members’ magazine ‘51’:

When it comes to food, there’s tapas – small sharing plates, quickly ordered and quickly served. And a drink, often while standing up, in the thick of things.

Pérez also has some specific tips for Bayern fans: “Those looking for good German food and beer can visit the ‘Fass’ near the stadium.” And just a few minutes away from that is a special place. “In the Parque de Berlin there are original pieces of the Berlin Wall – it’s a fascinating place, especially for German fans.”

His tip for the perfect day of football is simple, though: “Go into the city, experience the atmosphere and enjoy the fact Bayern are playing here.”

Madrid is more than an away match. It’s a day that slowly builds up to a crescendo and then goes far beyond the 90 minutes.

Follow the build-up to the match in our live blog: